Carol Besler wrote an interesting article about how we should title watches made by haute couture houses like Chanel and Hermes. In the article “Don’t call us fashion watches”, published on the website of the AIHH, Besler proposed to make a difference between watches made by fashion brands. For prices below USD 1000 we should continue calling them Fashion Watches, where as when mechanical movements are used and the prices evidently will be higher, Besler proposed to name them Couture Watches. I strongly agree with Besler and think it is an excellent idea, because Chanel ofcourse wants to differciate it’s high-end Tourbilion watch from the high-volume Guess watches.
Don’t call us “fashion watches”
A fashion watch is not so-called because of its affiliation with a fashion house, and yet a fashion watch can have such an affiliation. Furthermore, a watch can be fashionable, even if it is not designated as fashion watch, as long as it hits a certain price point.
In the 1980s, the Swiss watch industry, having been crucified by the invention of quartz movements a decade earlier, was miraculously resurrected when Swatch created the “fashion watch.” It was a cheap, plastic, fashionable and accurate alternative to the mechanical watch and, low and behold, it spawned a brand new segment in the watch industry.
Fashion watches, a term utterly ambiguous
Other “fashion” watches followed. There was Guess, Fossil, Nina Ricci, DKNY, Burberry, et cetera, et cetera. Because some of these watches were produced under license from luxury fashion houses, it so happened that, ever after, any watch bearing the name of a luxury fashion brand was dubbed a “fashion” watch. This understandably rankles companies such as Chanel, which objects to the notion of anyone placing, for example, its baguette-diamond-set J12 Tourbillon in the same category as a USD 250 quartz Nina Ricci (nothing against Nina Ricci ; it’s a great watch !). Even within the industry, the moniker “fashion watch,” still sticks to anything with a couture-sounding name. The term has therefore become utterly ambiguous, referring to anything from a USD 150 DKNY to a USD 2,000 Gucci to a USD 130,000 Chanel, depending on the person using the term and what they conceive it to mean. Because of this confusion, brands are shying away from the title in droves.
“We are not interested in participating in an article about fashion watches,” came a terse reply from Chanel when approached for this story. “We are watchmakers.” Similarly, Hermes, whose watches are made in Switzerland by one of the world’s most respected watchmakers, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, commented : “From ready-to-wear to leather to watches, it is our policy to join forces with experts in that field. We are not producing fashion watches.”
So noted. A fashion watch, then, is not so-called because of its affiliation – license or otherwise – with a fashion house, and yet a fashion watch can have such an affiliation. Furthermore, a watch can be fashionable, even if it is not designated as fashion watch, as long as it hits a certain price point. But what should that price point be ?
Time to address this crisis of designation
It is perhaps time someone addressed this crisis of designation, a crisis which, it should be noted, also besets the jewellery industry : the term “fashion” formerly referred to costume jewellery, which is made of base metals and rhinestones rather than noble metals and diamonds, but today, the term refers to all jewellery that is non-bridal, and stems from the notion that it is fashion-driven.
For watches, I humbly propose the following new segment designations. For all high-end watches – that is, with mechanical movements, complications and/or high jewellery pieces, AND which bear the name of a luxury goods brand, I propose the name “couture watches” (this would include Chanel, Hermes, Dior and Gucci). Brands with all of these qualities except a fashion house brand name designation should be called “luxury watches” (this would include Cartier, Piaget, Boucheron). And finally, brands that are primarily quartz, under USD 1,000, let’s say, and may or may not bear the name of a fashion house should retain the name “fashion watch” (DKNY and Nina Ricci, but also Fossil and Timberland).
There may linger some ambiguity in (or hostility toward) these categories. Some will argue that “fashion” should include anything under USD 2,000, but if we do, those in the USD 1,000 and up range might object. Others will object to the title of “couture,” which might not be perceived as sufficiently accessible to designate a mass luxury brand… I predict all sorts of objections. But it’s a start.
Tags: AIHH, Carol Besler, chanel, couture, couture watches, dior, Fashion, fashion watches, gucci, haute couture, Haute Horlogerie, hermes, Quartz, swatch, watch, watches
April 3, 2008 at 5:11 pm |
I think couture watches is not the right term. The watches are, although horologically very respectable, are not at the same level as the fashion achievements of these brands. This is no shame or problem, just a fact. Rolex will never produce a dress at the level Chanel can and luckily they won’t try it either. With all due respect to Chanels watches, their tourbillon is just another high end fashion item in which they follow other brands, and has no real relevance to either the functioning or desgin of the watch. It is an expensive luxury and status item. Is that bad? Not at all. But the companies in the front line of watch development are Patek Philippe for their complications, tradition and craftmenship, Rolex for their endless innovation in durability and timeless design and many other brands for their innovations in the use of materials (Richard Mille), small batches of haute horlogerie pieces (like Parmigiani), etc etc.
What defines the esssence of a fashion watch is not the price point, but the urge to make sales today and the quick depreciation of the value of the watch tomorrow. In that way, even a $ 200.000 can very well be a fashion watch, while a BenRus Military watch of $ 50 can turn out to a higly sought after piece of functionality and timeless design. So, for me, a fashion watch is a fashion watch, no matter the price or the manufacturer: it’s here today, and gone tomorrow. This will be inevitably the faith of almost all the so called Couture Watches.
April 9, 2008 at 10:30 pm |
[…] (we wrote an article about what watches should or shouldn’t be labeled as fashion: “Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches“. In this post I name the watches that are designed by fashion houses and produced for the […]
May 1, 2008 at 4:55 pm |
[…] watches (we wrote an article about what watches should or shouldn’t be labeled as fashion: “Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches“. In this post I name the watches that are designed by fashion houses and produced for the price […]
May 16, 2008 at 1:44 pm |
[…] the discussion on fashion watches/couture watches vs. haute horlogerie, I think Chanel managed to make a beautiful […]
May 23, 2008 at 5:27 am |
Superb blog. Thanks for the information, it is very useful. I visited a site and it’s also cool, I’d like to share my directory site with you, check this one out.
watch collecting directory
November 25, 2008 at 9:55 pm |
This is an interesting article and on a subject that I have not spent much time thinking about. There is certainly room to catergorise watches using their values as the base line but as you elude to above the problem will be that the high end manufacturers will not want to settle for a universal name and will go out on their own rendering the whole thing useless probably…
April 15, 2009 at 2:36 pm |
My fellow on Orkut shared this link with me and I’m not dissapointed that I came here.
June 18, 2009 at 10:54 am |
Hey people…………just to share with you’ll………..
recently I visited a site “timezone123.com” of watches & they were simply smashing. I think you’ll should have a look………
the url of the site is http://www.timezone123.com
November 25, 2009 at 5:36 am |
Did you design this template?
November 25, 2009 at 11:14 am |
No, Menno Dijk did: http://www.men-o-dee.nl/?page_id=30
February 22, 2010 at 8:10 am |
Yes,it is tough to differentiate fashion watches so when someone purchase a watch for $100 and other for $10,000 both uses same word fashion watch. I purchased few rolex watches and I never called them fashion watches instead I used rolex.
February 22, 2010 at 8:12 am |
My other friend who also uses
rolex watches never use this term as well.
February 22, 2010 at 8:16 am |
you are right
February 22, 2010 at 8:19 am |
agreed,there should be some broad classification for each category.
September 28, 2010 at 8:56 am |
Thanks for the great post! It’s high quality. I have been reading your website for a long time already and it’s the first time I comment.
the very good work and keep delivering high value!
November 20, 2010 at 2:48 pm |
you are right!agree
February 16, 2011 at 3:54 pm |
Great stuff,
Thanks for sharing.
August 28, 2011 at 10:07 am |
urban wear…
Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches « WatchFreaks…
August 29, 2011 at 2:09 am |
well known watches…
Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches « WatchFreaks…
August 31, 2011 at 8:21 am |
TAG Heuer Watches for Sale…
Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches « WatchFreaks…
February 2, 2012 at 6:59 pm |
ice watch…
[…]Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches « WatchFreaks[…]…
March 14, 2013 at 9:18 am |
Simply want to say your article is as amazing. The clarity in your post is
just great and i could assume you’re an expert on this subject. Well with your permission let me to grab your RSS feed to keep updated with forthcoming post. Thanks a million and please keep up the gratifying work.
March 19, 2013 at 7:29 pm |
Howdy are using WordPress for your blog platform? I’m new to the blog world but I’m trying to get started and
set up my own. Do you need any coding knowledge to make
your own blog? Any help would be really appreciated!
March 21, 2013 at 11:51 am |
This is the perfect web site for anybody who would like to understand this topic.
You realize so much its almost hard to argue with you
(not that I actually would want to…HaHa). You definitely put a fresh spin on a topic which has been discussed for many years.
Wonderful stuff, just excellent!
March 23, 2013 at 2:05 am |
You can find studs to dazzling and dangling earrings.
There were catalogs from which to choose items but she had
several dozen items on display.
March 28, 2013 at 5:39 pm |
With thanks. Quite a lot of knowledge.
March 30, 2013 at 10:15 pm |
A motivating discussion is worth comment. I think that you should
publish more on this subject matter, it may not be a taboo matter but typically folks don’t speak about such subjects. To the next! Best wishes!!
July 18, 2013 at 7:09 pm |
Currently it seems like Drupal is the preferred blogging platform out
there right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you are using on your blog?
July 25, 2013 at 4:11 am |
Travis is famous in putting on ep penny 2- black/royal blue.
March 27, 2014 at 2:22 pm |
whoah this blog is excellent i love studying your articles.
Keep up the good work! You recognize, a lot of persons are looking round for this information, you can help them greatly.
September 3, 2017 at 8:28 pm |
watches worn
Couture Watches vs. Fashion Watches | WatchFreaks