Posts Tagged ‘Jean Richard’

SIHH 2009 Trade Show Review

January 20, 2009

Yesterday, I visited the 19th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, Switzerland. Two days ago we already posted a preview and hereby we want to present the snap shots I took. FYI: The next SIHH will again be in January.

This year the following brands were present at the SIHH:

+  Richemont brands:
– Cartier
– A. Lange & Sohne
– Jaeger –LeCoultre
– IWC
– Mont Blanc
– Panerai
– Vacheron Constantin
– Van Cleef & Arpels
– Dunhill
– Baume & Mercier
– Piaget
– Ralph Lauren

+ Independent brands
:
– Audermars Piguet
– Girard Perregaux
– Jean Richard
– Parmigiani
– Roger Dubuis

Hereby a review of the fair with some snap shops. In advance I want to apologize for the poor quality of the photographs, this had two reasons: some window cases & the lighting were very poor and we were in huge rush.

The overall conclusion is that there are not spectacular novelties, most brands restyled a family, presented a new movement, but it still is mostly line extensions. The trends of previous years are contined: Black cases, Big is still the benchmark, Bling is NOT dead and pink gold is still leading in the precious metals followed by Platinum. The buzz on the fair was the new kid on the block: Ralph Lauren.

Ralph Lauren
The Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry Company did not present any watches on display, but solely by appointment. Hereby an impression of their window, presenting a ladies watch:

And, this is an impression of the Men’s collection of Ralph Lauren:

IWC
The brand from Schaffhausen restyled their Aquatimer collection and therefore their complete stand was like an underwater experience.

Fans of the Deep One finally can add a brother to their cult watch, the Deep Two:

Cousteau is history and IWC is sponsoring the Galapagos Foundation and therefore made an unique black Aquatimer with a Rubber coating:

IWC also ‘borrowed’ a patent strap exchange system from sister-company Cartier… For more info, please stay tuned.

Baume & Mercier
The ‘elegant’ watch company from Geneva did not launch many novelties this year, besides four magnificent William Baume Limited Editions, this is a watch we found striking:

Audemars Piguet
Flying in to Geneva I was reading my morning paper, IHT, and the newest AP model immediately coought my attention (yes, it reminds me too of a Breguet). Unfortunately, the watch was not on disply. Therefore, I want to share the following image with you that confirms two trends (black & big):

Vacheron Constantin
Since 1755 Vacheron Constantin keeps on innovating. Apparently the vintage fashion did not pass and therefore VC re-introduced a watch they manufactured in 1921 (my sincere apologies for the terrible picture):

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Like IWC, does Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture amazing divers watches. This year JLC focuses on the novelties in the Compressor series, but I like this model better:

Ferrari by Panerai
Panerai took the term “Ferrari Red” very litteraly:

Cartier
Is Cartier the King of Bling? Or did they just manufacture this watch for the new First Lady, Michelle Obama?

JeanRichard
GP little brother is growing up, it is now catering women who want it all, bling & tourbillon:

Mont Blanc
Minerva has been bought by Richemont/Mont Blanc a couple of years ago and they are making spectacular new movements:

Dunhill
I wish that Dunhill would make these keys again:

Panerai
The Italian brand had a lot of news, but they did not present the prototypes in the showcases, but don’t we all love the watch presented horizontally?!

Roger Dubuis
We listed this brand as an independent brand, but this is since last year not completely true anymore. Richemont took a big stake in this innovative and young company. I loved the sight of this watch movement:


A. Lange & Sohne
The German Manufacture, A. Lange & Sohne, seems to learn from their colleague, PP… Patek recently presented classical moon phases watches (originally for men) in ‘bling’ versions for ladies… At AL&S, they have must thought the same:

Piaget
The manufacture Piaget presented this watch during the Salon, but unfortunately I did not have time to visit the stand to ask them watch functions this watch/case lid had… Maybe one of our visitors can? I does look coo, doesn’t it?

Basically, my visit to this year’s SIHH was great fun as usual. It seemed a lot let busy. At first impression it seemed that the brands did not have much to present this year (they did only have 8 months since the last SIHH), but when you analyze it… They did develop quite a bit in these last 8 months! On top of that, I expected that the brands would be a bit more… What’s the word… ‘modest’?! The first indication of the current crisis did present itself already in April 2008… But, on the contrary… Bling was still alive and kickin’! Maybe a nice subject for the next post 😉

Preview SIHH 2009

January 18, 2009

As written here on April 11th, 2008, we predicted that SIHH 2009 will not be in the same month as BaselWorld, but in January… To be precise: tomorrow!

Therefore I am flying tomorrow morning, very early, to Geneva to visit the 19th SIHH, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. It is not clear why the Haute Horlogerie Association decided to move this exclusive event away from the shadow of BaselWorld, which usually takes place in April. We predict it will be way less busy, since visitor that come from other continents will be forced to choose and will choose to visit BaselWorld. But, now with the current economical situation, we expect that the numbers of visitor will be even lower.

But, the watch brands have not been sitting still and every brand present at SIHH have news. There is even a ‘new kid on the block’: Ralph Lauren (a joint venture of Richemont and Polo Ralph Lauren – The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewellery Company, S.A.R.L.). The creation of a new haute horlogerie company was announced in March 2007 and almost two years later products will be presented… We are very curious!

Unfortunately we did not find any pictures of Ralph Lauren watches yet, so we have to wait until tomorrow. We will try to post a new article WITH pictures tomorrow on this blog… Stay tuned!

What have we heard throught the grapevine up till today:

– IWC: Restyled the complete Aquatimer Family and is launching a successor to the infamous Deep One: The Deep Two. There will not be a Cousteau Limited Edtion anymore, but instead a Galapogos Limited Edtition version. There will be a St. Ex. Limited Edition, which will be a Big Pilot version. On top of that there are many new variations on the other collections: Big Ingenieur Chronograph, New calibre with month and date in a double digit format!

– Baume & Mercier: Focuses on the Hampton collection this year and is launching a Hampton Magnum Chronograph and a Magnum Ladies version.

– Vacheron Constantin: Launching the Historiques American 1921, an unique cushion shaped watch!

– A. Lange & Sohne: Is launching the second member of the ‘chronometer’ family, the Richard Lange ‘Pour le Merite’.

-Girard-Perregaux: The brand always tries to focuses equally to men as well as to men. Therefore this year they are launching the ww.tc in a 43mm black ceramic case. For the ladies they developed the Cat’s Eey Annual Calendar and Signs of the Zodiac… It sounds interesting… We are curious.

– Parmigiani: The Tondagraph celebrates a new case and a brand new grande complication movement this year.

– Mont Blanc: The penmaker became a true watchmaker by the incorporation of Minerva and therefore are launching two new Villeret watches: The Villeret Grande Chronographe Regulator and The Grand Tourbillon Heueres Mysterieuses (sounds very interesting).

– Piaget: This brands is often percieved as a jewelry brand, but few people know that Piaget is a true manufacture watchmakers brand. This year Emperador Coussin Moon Phase.

– Van Cleef & Arpels: ‘Une Journee a Paris’ is a watch which is a tribute to the hometown of the brand: Paris.

– Panerai: The Italian brand transformed rapidly in the last couple of years and is aiming to become a true manufacture. Therefore this year they are presenting a new automatic movement, which will be presented in three variations: power reserve, GMT and GMT plus power reserve. On top of that the are introducing the Luminor Chrono Daylight 44mm-Titanium. We are very curious what the Paneristi will say… Please share with us 🙂

– JeanRichard: A brand that is part of the Girrad-Perregaux family follows it brother’s tradition, they will also launch a new watch for men (Chronoscope MV Agusta Brutale Nera Watch) and for women (Lady Juliette).

Tomorrow we hope that we will confirm these previews and present the news from: Cartier, Dunhill, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet and Roger Dubuis.

My co-author on this blog, Boon, will be attending too and we planned a mid-day coffee brake to catch up and have a quick review of the fair… Boon will be running arond filming the novelties! I will use my pocket camera making snap shots for you to publish here… Hope to welcome you here tomorrow 🙂

Breaking News: Gucci buys stake in Sowind Group (GP & JR)

June 14, 2008

On April 25th we reported that another independent watchmaker was taken over by a big luxury group (LVMH bought Hublot). Today we report the purchase of 23% of the Sowind Group (Girrard Perregaux and Jean Richard) by Gucci Group (owned by PPR).

Please share your opinion about this fact. Is it a positive or negative move by an independent watch manufacturer? And will the other independent watch manufacturers be ‘tempted’ to sell their companies as a result of the huge sums of money offered by the big luxury firms?

Here follows the official press release by PPR:

“PPR and Girard-Perregaux sign a long-term strategic partnership.

 PPR announced the signature of a long-term strategic partnership with the Sowind Group, a Swiss holding company based in La Chaux de Fonds headed by Luigi Macaluso. The Sowind Group includes the Haute Horlogerie brands Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard, a Research and Development Centre, as well as Sowind Manufacture, maker of high-end watch movements. Under the partnership, PPR will own a 23% interest in the Sowind Group, with the possibility of increasing its stake under the terms of a shareholders’ agreement. Mr. Macaluso will retain control of the company.

This strategic partnership represents the materialisation of a shared vision between the two partners regarding long-term growth prospects in the Haute Horlogerie segment. It will allow PPR and Girard-Perregaux to combine their know-how and knowledge base in terms of R&D, design, brand management, distribution networks and sourcing. Mr Macaluso will join the Gucci Group Management Committee and the Boucheron Board of Directors. François-Henri Pinault and Robert Polet will become Directors on the Sowind Board.
 
This long-term agreement offers Girard-Perregaux, one of the last independent, high-end Swiss watch “Manufactures”, and the JeanRichard brand the means to fully exploit their potential for growth and innovation by teaming up with one of the major players in the luxury goods industry. As for PPR, the agreement confirms the Gucci Group’s goal of building a strong presence in the Haute Horlogerie segment, one of the most promising luxury goods markets. The Gucci Group brands will thus benefit from outstanding watch-making expertise and will extend their sourcing for timepiece components.
 
François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of PPR, declared: “I am pleased that the bonds between our two groups are being strengthened, as we build a joint future in one of the most prestigious sectors of the luxury goods business. The PPR and Sowind groups share the same entrepreneurial values passed on through long family tradition. I have a great admiration for Girard-Perregaux, a brand founded in 1791 whose identity and worldwide influence is exceptional.”  
 
Luigi Macaluso, Chairman and CEO of the Sowind Group, stated: “I am extremely pleased to be able to work with a major group like PPR and, specifically, with the Gucci Group. This will be a truly rewarding experience. Our varied and complementary skills are based on common values of excellence. This agreement will mean new synergies and new long-term projects.”
 
Robert Polet, Gucci Group CEO, said: “This is a tremendous opportunity for our brands to be in contact with the greatest watch-making expertise of Sowind. We are convinced that this
agreement will create a number of important synergies for our watch brands and their further development.”
 
About PPR 
PPR develops a portfolio of high-growth global brands. Through its Consumer and Luxury brands, PPR generated sales of EUR 19.8 billion in 2007. The Group is present in 90 countries with approximately 93,000 employees. PPR shares are listed on Euronext Paris (# 121485, PRTP.PA, PPFP).
To explore the universe of PPR brands go to www.ppr.com: Fnac, Redcats Group (La Redoute, Vertbaudet, Somewhere, Cyrillus, Daxon, Ellos, The Sportsman’s Guide, The Golf Warehouse and brands of the plus-size division), Conforama, CFAO, Puma and the Luxury brands of Gucci Group (Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, YSL Beauté, Balenciaga, Boucheron, Sergio Rossi, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney).
 
Sowind Group, the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking Art
The Sowind Group is a Swiss « Haute Horlogerie » company owned by Luigi Macaluso who has been heading it since 1992.
Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Group incorporates the Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard brands, a watch « Manufacture » that develops and produces a complete portfolio of high-end movements (more than 100 variations) and collections of mechanical watches.
The Research and Development Centre is the company’s cornerstone, with more than 80 patents and a strong percentage of the firm’s turnover being re-invested in it.
Girard-Perregaux’s roots date back to 1791 and the company history is rich in innovations bringing together design and technology, like the renown Tourbillon with three gold bridges created by Constant Girard in the 19th century.
 Girard-Perregaux is represented globally in 550 prestigious points of sale and several exclusive boutiques, like the one in Gstaad.
JeanRichard is a brand dedicated to Daniel JeanRichard (a pioneer of watchmaking in the Neuchatel region during the 17th century) and presents a daring and innovative interpretation of the codes of traditional Swiss watchmaking.
 
Key Figures:
§ 350 employees
§ An annual production of around 20 000 units
§ Watches with prices ranging from around 6 000 to 500 000 Euros
§ Two unique museums: the Girard-Perregaux museum in Villa Marguerite and the museum dedicated to watchmaking tools and machinery in the Villa JeanRichard.”
 

SIHH 2008 Trade Show Review

April 11, 2008

Yesterday, I traveled from Basel to Geneva early in the morning and spent there from noon to 8 pm at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, Switzerland. This was the 18th time the SIHH took place in Geneva and next year it will start on January 19th, 2009! This means it will take LESS than one year to receive news & new models from the following brands that present their novelties during this exclusive event.

This year the following brands were present at the SIHH:

+  Richemont brands:
– Cartier
– A. Lange & Sohne
– Jaeger –LeCoultre
– IWC
– Mont Blanc
– Panerai
– Vacheron Constantin
– Van Cleef & Arpels
– Dunhill
– Baume & Mercier
– Piaget

+ Independent brands
:
– Audermars Piguet
– Girard Perregaux
– Jean Richard
– Parmigiani
– Roger Dubuis

Hereby a review of the fair with some snap shops. In advance I want to apologize for the poor quality of the photographs, this had two reasons: some window cases & the lighting were very pour and we were in huge rush.

SIHH Impression
Impression of SIHH 2008

SIHH Impression
Another impression of SIHH 2008

SIHH Impression
One of the 16 brands present at the SIHH.

SIHH Impression
Any business is people’s business: Food is a catalyst in doing business 😉

Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels

Audermars Piguet
Audermars Piguet

Audermars Piguet
Audermars Piguet

Panerai
Panerai

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

JeanRichard
JeanRichard

JeanRichard
JeanRichard Window

Girard Perregaux
Girrard Perregaux

Cartier
Cartier
Cartier
Cartier

Vacheron Constatin
Vacheron Constantin Window

A. Lange & Sohne
A. Lange & Sohne

Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis

Dunhill
Dunhill Vintage

Dunhill
Dunhill Vintage

Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier

IWC Da Vinci
IWC

IWC Pilot St. Ex.
IWC

Today I had some additional meetings in Geneva and I am traveling back to Amsterdam at this very moment. I have some more picture of SIHH and will try to post tomorrow some trends presented at the Salon.