Watch Advertizements

Last weekend, my girlfriend and I were on our way to a department store. On our way there, we passed a watch (and jewelry) shop and stopped to have quick look at their watch collection. As we moved on, my girlfriend asked the following question: “Why do watch brands advertize with Brad Pitt and George Clooney for men’s watches? Men don’t want to be like them and probably don’t even like them.”. I just nodded and added “I understand that brands advertize with legends like James Bond or Steve McQueen, but advertizing with Brad Pitt and George Clooney doesn’t make sense to me either”. And it really doesn’t. I don’t have to explain James Bond I assume, but perhaps that Steve McQueen is more or less an actor like Brad Pitt and George Clooney are. However, Steve McQueen has a different kind of cult status. Besides being an actor, he was involved in racing motor bikes and cars as well. And he passed away some time ago (1980), perhaps this helps a bit as well.

I can’t imagine that guys are persuaded to buy a Tag Heuer or Omega watch because Brad and George are advertizing for these brands. By the way, ever noticed that Brad Pitt wears Rolex in the Ocean-movies? Who comes up with these silly advertizing campaigns? Omega should advertize with astronauts, a few sports people and perhaps with George Daniels. Or maybe even legends who wore Omega watches during their life times (e.g. president Kennedy). Same goes for Tag Heuer, let Brad Pitt go and continue advertizing with people like Steve McQueen and F1 drivers. Those are people that guys want to identify themselves with. The only thing men find interesting about Brad Pitt is his wife, as simple as that.

Anyway, I think that the collectors and watch freaks amongst us do not care about advertizements using movie stars and rock stars. Perhaps most of you don’t even care about advertizing with Jacques Cousteau (IWC) or Napoleon Bonaparte (Breguet). I know that I don’t.

I do like the old fashioned Rolex advertizements in National Geographic’s magazine, where pilots/explorers/divers share their experience using a Rolex watch. Or the Omega advertizement telling us that the 100.000 USD suits used by NASA astronauts are complemented by a 250 USD Speedmaster watch.

One of the best (recent) advertizements for a watch has been done by Audemars Piguet imho. A few years ago, the Audemars Piguet brochure included a portrait of an unknown watch collector who collected watches since he was a kid. At one time, he met this guy who was wearing an early model Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This watch didn’t let him go, and he promised himself to get one. Years later, he found one in poor condition. He bought it and had it fully restored. Why I think this is a good advertizement? Because it is finally about an unknown guy with love for watches, hunting for that special time piece, buying it and admiring it. No show-off, no famous face, no movie star… Great! I can relate to that!

 

 

Free tickets to “Juwelen in het Amstel” for this weekend

Juwelen in het Amstel - Exclusive Event in Amstel Hotel Amsterdam

This is the third time Ace Jewelers Group will be presenting the following watch brands: IWC, Omega, Breitling and Baume & Mercier, exclusively during the elegant event: ”Juwelen in het Amstel” in the luxurious Amstel Hotel in Amsterdam. During the weekend of Friday 20th of June until Sunday 22th of June, 2008, Ace Jewelers will also exclusively present the jewelry of the international brands: Noor Diamonds, Jean-Marc Garel, Marco Bicego, MeeVIDA, Baskania, Stockert Diamonds en Royal Asscher Diamonds.

As CEO of Ace Jewelers I am honoured to offer the WatchFreaks on this blog, ten entrance cards free of charge, valid for 2 persons. Please send an e-mail before Thursday June 19th, 2008 to: amstel@acejewelers.com and the first ten senders, will receive the entrance cards by mail.

Name of Event: “Juwelen in het Amstel” - Amstel Hotel Amsterdam
Entry Fee: EUR 45,– per person
Date and Time: Fri 20/Sat 21/Sun 22 June - whole day
Address Details: InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam, Prof. Tulpplein 1, 1018 GX Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Additional info: http://www.interevent.org/ja

Hope to see you there. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us.

Breaking News: Gucci buys stake in Sowind Group (GP & JR)

On April 25th we reported that another independent watchmaker was taken over by a big luxury group (LVMH bought Hublot). Today we report the purchase of 23% of the Sowind Group (Girrard Perregaux and Jean Richard) by Gucci Group (owned by PPR).

Please share your opinion about this fact. Is it a positive or negative move by an independent watch manufacturer? And will the other independent watch manufacturers be ‘tempted’ to sell their companies as a result of the huge sums of money offered by the big luxury firms?

Here follows the official press release by PPR:

“PPR and Girard-Perregaux sign a long-term strategic partnership.

 PPR announced the signature of a long-term strategic partnership with the Sowind Group, a Swiss holding company based in La Chaux de Fonds headed by Luigi Macaluso. The Sowind Group includes the Haute Horlogerie brands Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard, a Research and Development Centre, as well as Sowind Manufacture, maker of high-end watch movements. Under the partnership, PPR will own a 23% interest in the Sowind Group, with the possibility of increasing its stake under the terms of a shareholders’ agreement. Mr. Macaluso will retain control of the company.

This strategic partnership represents the materialisation of a shared vision between the two partners regarding long-term growth prospects in the Haute Horlogerie segment. It will allow PPR and Girard-Perregaux to combine their know-how and knowledge base in terms of R&D, design, brand management, distribution networks and sourcing. Mr Macaluso will join the Gucci Group Management Committee and the Boucheron Board of Directors. François-Henri Pinault and Robert Polet will become Directors on the Sowind Board.

 

This long-term agreement offers Girard-Perregaux, one of the last independent, high-end Swiss watch “Manufactures”, and the JeanRichard brand the means to fully exploit their potential for growth and innovation by teaming up with one of the major players in the luxury goods industry. As for PPR, the agreement confirms the Gucci Group’s goal of building a strong presence in the Haute Horlogerie segment, one of the most promising luxury goods markets. The Gucci Group brands will thus benefit from outstanding watch-making expertise and will extend their sourcing for timepiece components.

 

François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of PPR, declared: “I am pleased that the bonds between our two groups are being strengthened, as we build a joint future in one of the most prestigious sectors of the luxury goods business. The PPR and Sowind groups share the same entrepreneurial values passed on through long family tradition. I have a great admiration for Girard-Perregaux, a brand founded in 1791 whose identity and worldwide influence is exceptional.”  

 

Luigi Macaluso, Chairman and CEO of the Sowind Group, stated: “I am extremely pleased to be able to work with a major group like PPR and, specifically, with the Gucci Group. This will be a truly rewarding experience. Our varied and complementary skills are based on common values of excellence. This agreement will mean new synergies and new long-term projects.”

 

Robert Polet, Gucci Group CEO, said: “This is a tremendous opportunity for our brands to be in contact with the greatest watch-making expertise of Sowind. We are convinced that this

agreement will create a number of important synergies for our watch brands and their further development.”

 

About PPR 

PPR develops a portfolio of high-growth global brands. Through its Consumer and Luxury brands, PPR generated sales of EUR 19.8 billion in 2007. The Group is present in 90 countries with approximately 93,000 employees. PPR shares are listed on Euronext Paris (# 121485, PRTP.PA, PPFP).

To explore the universe of PPR brands go to www.ppr.com: Fnac, Redcats Group (La Redoute, Vertbaudet, Somewhere, Cyrillus, Daxon, Ellos, The Sportsman’s Guide, The Golf Warehouse and brands of the plus-size division), Conforama, CFAO, Puma and the Luxury brands of Gucci Group (Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, YSL Beauté, Balenciaga, Boucheron, Sergio Rossi, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney).

 

Sowind Group, the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking Art

The Sowind Group is a Swiss « Haute Horlogerie » company owned by Luigi Macaluso who has been heading it since 1992.

Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Group incorporates the Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard brands, a watch « Manufacture » that develops and produces a complete portfolio of high-end movements (more than 100 variations) and collections of mechanical watches.

The Research and Development Centre is the company’s cornerstone, with more than 80 patents and a strong percentage of the firm’s turnover being re-invested in it.

Girard-Perregaux’s roots date back to 1791 and the company history is rich in innovations bringing together design and technology, like the renown Tourbillon with three gold bridges created by Constant Girard in the 19th century.

 Girard-Perregaux is represented globally in 550 prestigious points of sale and several exclusive boutiques, like the one in Gstaad.

JeanRichard is a brand dedicated to Daniel JeanRichard (a pioneer of watchmaking in the Neuchatel region during the 17th century) and presents a daring and innovative interpretation of the codes of traditional Swiss watchmaking.

 

Key Figures:

§ 350 employees

§ An annual production of around 20 000 units

§ Watches with prices ranging from around 6 000 to 500 000 Euros

§ Two unique museums: the Girard-Perregaux museum in Villa Marguerite and the museum dedicated to watchmaking tools and machinery in the Villa JeanRichard.”

 

Show-off-ish?

As a watchfreak, I’m sure you have come across people who think you’re just being a show off with your fancy watches. Or, at the least, you must have been in situations in which you preferred to tuck your watch away under your sleeve. I know I certainly have. Of course, watches are luxury articles. Like many such articles, the modesty in most of us urges us to play it down a little in certain situations.

 
In my former career as a tax lawyer, I picked which watch to wear in the office and when visiting clients very carefully. In fact, I have never worn my steel Daytona even once during business hours. Not even my Explorer I. Instead, I often had a Heuer Monza around my wrist. With its black leather band and classic overall look it just seemed like a more appropriate watch to wear in the office than a Rolex, which is in my view THE show off brand in the eyes of the uninitiated.

 
I’m guessing you’ll appreciate my prudence in this respect. You just don’t want to wear a more expensive watch than your clients or even your boss. But also apart from the more obvious reasons for prudency in a business context, I think the most of us just don’t want to be too show-off-ish in general with our watches. So I’ve been asking myself, what makes a watch show-off-ish? Where is the line in haute horlogerie between a fine classic watch and a show off model? Is it the size? The use of precious stones? The material? The color? The price? The brand? It’s probably a combination of things.

 
The funny thing is we all think we recognize a show off when we see one, but we just can’t seem to point out exactly what qualifies it as such. I have compiled a short list of random watches below and took a shot in qualifying these watches as either classic or show-off-ish. You are invited to share your opinion on these watches with us in the comment section!

1. Jacob & Co. Five Automatic Chronograph

Let’s kick off with an easy one: show-off-ish. The bright colors and the excess of diamonds in the bezel (and the face of certain models) are simply too much. Another, at least equally important reason for such qualification is the people associated with this brand.

 
2. Zenith Academy Tourbillon Black Tie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A truly beautiful flamboyant classic watch. Yet I get the feeling there would be some occasions I wouldn’t feel too comfortable wearing it considering its distinctive looks (I must admit this is a tough call for me – it’s a thin line!!).

 
3. Chanel J12 Tourbillon

Regardless the discussion on fashion watches/couture watches vs. haute horlogerie, I think Chanel managed to make a beautiful and classic watch. Even though its bright color and stones don’t make it a very easy watch to wear, I’d say somehow there’s still plenty of class. 

 
4. Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon

Another Tourbillon in this list, but this time no question about it: CLASSIC. So high end yet so beautifully modest.

 
5. Rolex Daytona Steel

Although not too shiny, not too big, no crazy colors and no diamonds, it’s not an all-occassion watch to me like I mentioned above. Probably because of the brand perception with (predominantly) the uninitiated and its highly sought-after status. Or is it just me?

 
Again, please do share your opinion with us!

Invitation: IWC Novelty Event

As member of Team Ace, I hereby want to invite all WatchFreaks to the IWC Novelty Event we are hosting in Amsterdam in one of our stores.

This event is for invited guests only. If you are curious to see this collection please send an e-mail to <info [at] acejewelers.com>.

Date: Monday May 26th, 2008
Time: from 5 pm till 9 pm
Location: Ace & Dik Jewelers, Van Baerlestraat 46, Amsterdam (The Netherlands)

For an overview of the novelties, you can visit: http://www.iwc.com/messepopup_2008/index-en.asp

One Watch

How easy would it be to own just one watch? Just one watch that satisfies all my watch needs. Way back, I mentioned this thought already on the fratello blog, but just recently I was triggered to think about it again.

A little while a go, a friend of mine and I attended the Düsseldorf watch fair. At the watch fair, we teamed up with some more familiar Dutch faces. Among them was my long time friend Johan. I went to school and college with this guy and back then, he didn’t care about watches the same way I did. However, as time passed he started to investigate which watch he liked best. After a while, he narrowed it down to one brand. Then, he made a short list of which watches in the brand’s collection he liked best. Just about a year ago, he decided to go for the Rolex Explorer II with a white dial. 

Anyway, when we were on our way home after having said goodbye to Johan and the other guys we’d met that day, we discussed how easy it would be to own just one watch. One watch that does the trick for you. We ended the discussion with the fact that we envied Johan for having peace by owning ‘just’ one watch and not having the urge to go out and buy the next one. One watch that’s just the perfect watch for you. You did your research and window shopping and in the end, the Rolex Explorer II is the perfect watch. Wow! I just can’t do that. Several times, I thought about selling all my watches and get one time piece back that I like best, but then I will immediately long for that vintage Speedmaster or the extra time zone feature like my GMT-Master has. However, it would make things a lot easier. I also think it is way nicer to pass down just one watch to your kids as the watch ‘dad’ always wore than passing down a whole collection of watches. They probably don’t know what to do with it, and since there are so many of them, they don’t have that sentimental value for them

On the other hand, he probably collects other stuff. Guys collect stuff. If it wasn’t for watches, I probably had an urge to buy vintage fountain pens or Dinky Toys or Märklin Trains or comics or [fill-in].

Lex Stolk new editor-in-chief 00/24 Magazine

Hereby the WFB Team congratulate Lex with his new job!Lex Stolk is the new editor-in-chief of 00/24 Magazine, the ultimate watch magazine that is published in Dutch and English editions. Lex is a highly experienced editor with intimate knowledge of the watch industry and great passion for watches. As editor-in-chief he has been responsible for Dutch watch magazine Horloges, GBF, WatchWorld (Scandinavia) and the watch supplements of the largest Dutch newspaper Telegraaf.

 

Lex Stolk takes over from Karel Hubert who initiated 00/24 Magazine in 2003. Hubert takes up the position of supervising editor-in-chief. He will be responsible for the English edition of 00/24 Magazine and the special watch and lifestyle magazines Tijd Inc and Style Inc, produced on behalf of het Financieele Dagblad, the Dutch financial daily newspaper.

In respect for his former employer, WatchWorld, he decided to quit his ‘young’ carreer as a WFB author and he will stay a huge WFB fan. We all wish his good luck in his new position and we are all looking forward to the great article that will follow.

 

Breaking News: LVMH buys Hublot

Yesterday, it became official that LVMH bought the watch manufacturer Hublot!

“LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton agreed to acquire Geneva-based watchmaker, the Hublot group, for an undisclosed amount, from Hublot’s founder Carlo Crocco and a company controlled by Jean-Claude Biver. The Hublot brand joins other watch brands in the LVMH portfolio including TAG Heuer, Zenith, Dior Montres, Louis Vuitton watches and the watch collections of jewelers Chaumet and Fred.” as stated in the Rappaport Weekly News Letter.

This is an interesting development: It shows that the large groups (LVMH is the largest luxury group out there) are still ‘hungry’ to buy up any independent watch companies. It also shows that the luxury groups strongly believe in this industry.

I don’t know if we need to congratulate Mr. Crocco, who founded the company only 1980 and handed the reigns to the ‘whiz kid’ Biver (former CEO of Omega and Blancpain) in 2004. In 2004 Biver announced that he would blow up the Hublot brand… Indeed, he created the Big Bang watch, but apparently he succieded…

Hereby the official press release of LVMH:

“LVMH acquires the Swiss watchmaker Hublot

Paris, 24 April 2008

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s leading luxury group, announces that it has signed an agreement to acquire the Hublot group, a top of the range watchmaker enjoying very strong growth.

LVMH will acquire Hublot from Mr Carlo Crocco, who founded the group in 1980, and a company controlled by Mr Jean-Claude Biver, who has managed Hublot since 2004.

Hublot is a brand that is highly complementary to LVMH’s existing watch portfolio comprising TAG Heuer, the world leader in prestigious sport watches and chronographs, the Swiss Watch Manufacturer Zenith, Dior Montres, Louis Vuitton watches sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores, and the watch collections of jewellers Chaumet, Fred and De Beers.

STRONG GROWTH POTENTIAL
Hublot, which has its headquarters and workshops near Geneva, has started building a factory at Nyon to accommodate its expansion plans. Having grown at a rapid pace since 2004, the brand achieved net revenue of more than CHF150 million in 2007 with an excellent profitability. A very significant increase in revenue is expected in 2008.

Today, Hublot has a very selective and efficient distribution network which is limited to 300 stores worldwide.

Hublot has a well-balanced geographic footprint spanning Switzerland, Spain, France, Germany, the US, Latin America, Middle East, Russia, Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore… The brand has recently been launched in China and India and has strong growth potential in Asia, Japan, North America and in certain European markets.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND CHRONOGRAPHS
Hublot offers ranges of exceptional quality watches that are innovative, very differentiated and combining fusions of materials, precious metals, (gold, platinum,…) technological metals (titanium, tantalum…), ceramics, diamonds and natural rubber.

The renowned Big Bang collection includes models equipped with automatic movements whose prices range from €8,000 (steel and ceramic) to over €300,000, integrating precious metals and technical complexity.
A new Big Bang collection for women was launched at the last Basel watch fair with great success.

Finally, the traditional classic line has been recently redesigned using natural rubber, zircon, gold and ceramics.

Carlo Crocco, founder of Hublot, said : “I am happy that Hublot, an innovative brand since is creation, is joining the LVMH group, the world leader in luxury goods, whose creative passion is without any doubt a value that I have always shared.”

Jean-Claude Biver, the architect of the success of the Big Bang collection and the recent strong growth of Hublot, commented: “I am delighted that Hublot will be able to benefit from LVMH’s support and strategic  leadership in the luxury goods industry and so maximise its growth potential in the years to come. I am happy to be pursuing this adventure and to be able to contribute to the development of LVMH’s watchmaking division alongside Philippe Pascal.”

Philippe Pascal, Chief Executive Officer of LVMH’s Watches & Jewelry business group, added: “Hublot is a strategic and very complementary acquisition. Its high-end positioning, selective distribution, financial performance and growth potential make Hublot a ‘rising star’. Hublot will strengthen our Watches & Jewelry business group which, over the last three years, has been growing strongly. We are very happy that Jean-Claude Biver will, along with the management team of Hublot, continue on this remarkable journey and contribute his considerable expertise to our development in this promising sector.”

Are you a WatchFreak too? WFB Team keeps on growing

I never imagined, when I started this blog, that on the one hand blogging can be so much fun, and on the other hand I never expected to have so much feedback.

I got my friend Cliff (a great WatchFreak) blogging not so long ago and recently I asked him to contribute to this site. At first he was hesitating and being (truly) modest that he wasn’t such a great WatchFreak as I claimed and not a great writer. About the writing, check for yourself on his blog.

On top of that the chief editor of Horloges Magazine, Lex Stolk, has left the art of writing about timepieces for magazines and turn his carreer on to another path. But luckily for us, he promised to stay on as an author for WatchFreaks Blog. Of course the new chief editor of WatchWorld Magazine and Horloges Magazine, will stay on board of the team of authors of WatchFreaks Blog.

The time you read from your…. Phone! TAG Heuer GSM

TAG Heuer is the first Swiss watch manufacturar that has produced a high-quality GSM telephone!

For full details and additional photo visit the blog of Ace Jewelers: www.AceBlog.info

This phone was nick-named ‘The Vertu Killer’ during the BaselWorld fair. Although there is not a lot of information available, It is know that TAG Heuer targets the same customer base as Vertu, since the prices will start around EUR 3.400,–
It is an interesting development that a Swiss watch manufacturar jumps in to a different sector, a sector that actually can be seen as a competitor of the watch industry… A large portion of the youth doesn’t buy a wrist watch because the need it to read the time (they have their phones & computers), but because it is a fashion statement! And, on the other side, phones now-a-days also became fashion statements… So, TAG Heuer might not be that ‘crazy’ to diversify into other ‘fashion’ industries like glasses and phones…