The Lexus Dutch Watch Heritage

One of the hidden treasures of the Netherlands has come to light today!

Watches were packed away in boxes, in drawers or safes, or even visible on the wrists of proud owners, but today they can be viewed by all enthusiasts. The Netherlands knows thousands of watch-lovers – People who sometimes have a fortune to spend on just that one special watch –that ultimate wrist–ornament: to possess that wonder of refined mastery! From this inheritance ,the Lexus Dutch Watch Heritage, together with fascinated and passionate watch-lovers, brings this exceptional event. Meant for the collectors who would like to display their treasures and for all others who feel drawn towards the unique world of the quality timepiece.

The Lexus Dutch Watch Heritage gathers together 100 rare or unique watches. These will be exhibited to the public at the Netherlands Gold-, Silver-, and Clock Museum in Schoonhoven on Saturday 27th June and then from Tuesday 30th June up to and including Sunday 5th July. On these days you can visit the exhibition and admire models from top brands such as IWC, Rolex, Breitling, Jaeger Le Coultre and many others. Ace Jewelers will display a number of the latest timepieces next to this wonderful collection. Then you have the opportunity to look at and try the present-day models of IWC, Breitling, Edox, Tag Heuer and Omega. Ace Jewelers shows watches with a long history -for example the IWC Big Pilot, the legendary Breitling Navitimer and also watches with very complex movements like the Edox Minute Repeater. R

eadings on the Sunday give the subject more depth, and a taxation of one’s own watch allows active participation to the event for the watch enthusiast. The Netherlands’ only two honoured taxateurs, Anton Gaemers and Ronny Wooter have given their co-operation to, and will be present during the event. Anton Gaemers, timepiece- technician from the Hague, whose family have been active in chronometry since 1877, is the curator of the exhibition: ‘The Netherlands has probably more than a thousand serious timepiece collectors and it is fantastic to be able to exhibit the most beautiful and unique of this legacy’. Ronny Wooter, watch specialist from Sotheby’s, will share his expertise on taxation, amoung other subjects. Together these two gentlemen will provide lectures about the history and value of watches. Ace Jewelers will also provide a reading about watches and contemporary models. In short, an exhibition full of narratives, romance and craftsmanship.

Every watch has a story: the history of its origin, the specialities of the subject, the history of the brand and not forgetting the story behind the owner of the watch. Not only inspired timepiece technicians, but also pilots, racing-drivers, filmstarsand aspiring rivalling magnates figure in the story of watches. The exhibition is open to the public on Saturday 27th June, 2009 and from Tuesday 30 June up to and including 5th July 2009. The entrance fee is EUR 6,- p.p.

Nederlands Goud, Zilver en Klokkenmuseum
Kazerneplein 4
2871 CZ Schoonhoven
The Netherlands

www.DutchWatchHeritage.nl

BaselWorld 2009 Update: Personalisation (Last Day)

Today was my last day at the Basel Trade Fair and was originally planned for jewelry visits in Hall 2. The hardcore watch fans know that they should not be stucked in Hall 1, 3 and 5. Hall 2, officially the high-end jewelry hall, also has some ‘pearl’ watch brands present there.

Since it was our last day I did not have much time to take pictures, but I do want to share this picture quickly:

One of these pearls in hall 2 is Scalfaro. Therefore, I did make some time to visit my friend Dominik Kunhle, who founded Scalfaro with his brother 7 years ago. They are born and raised in Germany and part of a jewelry maker family. The Kunhle Brothers are great WatchFreaks and in 2002 they started to turn their dreams into reality. Every since, the do not only create interesting designs, but actually manufacture 70% of all the components themselves in their factory in Switzerland.

Unfortunately we did not have a lot of time to sit down relaxed and take that many pictures. But there is something that struck me as off during this fair: the lack of options provided by the watch manufacturers for watch owners to personalize their watches. I personally believe that this is the future (or actually back to the roots) of high-end watchmaking! I salute Vacheron Constatin with the introduction of the Quai de L’Ile collection about year and a half ago. My personal dream is also to design and manufacture a mechanical watch one day. With my family we made the first steps and have a prototype of a case ready, but even I underestimated how much work it takes to get things done. So, I know why high-end watch brands are NOT eager to make custom made watches.

My questions to you, my fellow WatchFreaks:

1. Did you have the need to have your watch personalized?

2. If so, what would you like to personalize? Dial, Case, name on movement, complete model, etc?

3. How much more would you be willing to spend (percentage) to get this done?

I hope that I do not ask to many questions, any input is appreciated.

BaselWorld 2009 Update: Snapshots Omega, Graham, Oris, Hamilton, TAG Heuer, etc

It was another amazing day, filled with watches. We visited Halls 1, 3 and 4 today. The day started at Ebel revising the watches dedicated to soccer:

Ebel Limited Edition AFC AJAX (150 pcs)

Ebel Real Madrid Tekton (Bezel is made of sapphire glass, instead or rubber).

Going from soccer into another sport, Graham dedicated its passion for racing:

Graham GMT Flyback Chrono Racing

What do you think of the infamous ChronoFighter models by Graham?

Graham ChronoFighter

Graham ChronoFighter

Graham ChronoFighter

Not only Graham loves racing, the brand that has the most racing DNA of all, is Heuer! I already wrote that I feel it is a year of ‘going back to the basics’. They also went back to their roots and honoured the 40th anniversary of the Heuer Monoca:

A replica of the first Monaco, they kept it as close as possible to the original ‘Heuer Monaco 1969′. What I really liked is that they used the old Heuer logo and not the most recent TAG Heuer logo on the dial, case back and folding clasp.

Back-side of Heuer Monaco 1969 re-edition (original calibre 11).

Modern interpetation of the TAG Heuer Monaco, available from summer 2009!

TAG Heuer Grande Carrera Calibre 36

Yesterday we did not have time to finish our meeting at Hamilton and went back today. This color really cought my eye:

New Hamilton ETO in unique colour: GunGrey!

New Hamilton strap: Leather or rubber? Yes… It is a rubber strap with a alligator print! Cool, no?!

Modern (?!) interpetation of classic Pilots watches…

Talking about re-editions and vintage models, one of the most legendary diving watches in the Omega collection is the Seamaster PloProf:

Omega Ploprof 2009

Sideview of the Omega PloProf

Omega Seamaster PloProf on my wrist (sorry for the blurry image).

With a matching folding clasp!

Going from legendary diving watch, to a very interesting diving watch made by Oris. The talking piece of Oris in 51mm (who says big is over?!):

New Oris Diver Chrono 1000m with VERY special bezel…

Oris Diver 2009: You have to lift the outer bezel vertically and only then can you spin the CERAMIC diving bezel. The chrono is 100 bar waterproof.

Tomorrow is my last day in Basel… Already bugged out that I will not have time to see everything that I planned on seeing… One week of Watch Magic is simply NOT enough :s

BaselWorld 2009 Update: Snapshots Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, Hamilton, Longines, etc

Most of the visitor of BaselWorld start in the impressive Hall 1.0 and you can not pass this hall without stoping at Rolex and Patek Philippe! Hereby some snapshot (my apologies for the poor quality).

I was not impressed with all the novelties this year. It seems a year of ‘going back to your roots’. Although everyone expected that it would be a quite fair, it was rather busy (visitors) and many brands still sounded positive…

Last year Rolex ‘rocked’ the fair with the introduction of The Dipsy, but this year I was not impressed AT ALL! It seems a year of flowers… Yes! Flowers. Check the dial:

Midsize Rolex Oyster with floral pattern on dial…

I did not take the effort to make a picture of the new bi-color submariners… We all know how the look like

At Patek it also seemed like a ladies year… Focus was on the PP Seal and relaunch of midsize Nautilus models in precious metals with diamonds.

Patek Philippe Nautilus mid size

The platinum version is one of my favourite PPs, but I have to admit this gold version looks amazing!

PP walked away from the legendary Geneva Seal and introduced the Patek Philippe Seal.

We met an unique watchmaker that designed many amazing movements for the grand brands, still does, but also started his own brand:

Marc Alfieri Tourbillon GMT Watch

Ulysse Nardin knows what ‘freaky’ watches are, but they also started making cellular phones. Robert-Jan presented the back of the phone with a mechanical movement here couple of weeks ago, here is the front of the ‘Chairman’:

It is still unknown what the exact retail price will be…

Breitling proudly presented the new Chronomat models with the manufacture B01 movement:

Breitling Chronomat 2009

And, for their 125th anniversary this year, the created a limited edition Navitimer:

Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversaire – Limited to 2009 pieces.

Seiko is 120+ old manufacture that also went back to their roots. The new Seiko “Ananta” collection does not only present new hybrid Spring Drive movements, but also manufacture automatic movements inspired by the original Samuari swords:

All new Seiko Ananta Automatic Chronograph

All new Seiko Ananta Automatic Power Reserve Hamilton slightly went back to their roots too, by launching the Automatic version of the Ventura (see our post about this watch)… But they are looking WAY ahead in the future, check these amazing new designs:

Hamilton ODC X–02 (front view)

Hamilton ODC X–02 (side view)

But this is not all, this is also a revolutionairy watch:

Hamilton Khaki BASE jump watches

Yes, you simply activate and reset the chrono by turning the bezel!

Also Longines went back to their roots and brought back some legandary watches, we are rather keen of this one:

Longines RAF WWW replica (see original here)

RAF Military www watch. 38,50mm with reference L2.731.4.53.1!

Last year Longines re-introduced the Legend Divers, this year they added a version with a date.

Longines Silver Shadow replica

We were very curious to see the newest family of Rado’s by Jasper Morrison:

Rado by Jasper Morrison

Tomorrow more news from BaselWorld! Stay tuned.

BaselWorld 2009 Update: Itay Noy Watches

Today I arrived in Basel and started the infamous trade fair visit with a dinner with a true artisan: Itay Noy. The watch maker of exclusive and hand made watches bearing his own name “Itay Noy”.

WFB first wrote about Itay Noy about a year ago: “Switzerland: The Holy Land?” and then I wrote that I tried that we would interview Itay Noy. Tonight was an informal dinner, but Itay promised to do a Q&A exclusively for WatchFreaks Blog. To be continued.

Same background info:

Internationally-acclaimed Israeli artist Itay Noy transforms telling time into a true art form. Each of his hand crafted, limited edition timepieces is made exclusively in Israel and appeals to those seeking unusual, high-quality watches. The recipient of eight prizes, including the prestigious Andrea M. Bronfman Prize in 2007, Noy lectures on timepiece design at Bezalel in Jerusalem. His work has been exhibited in museums all over the world and acquired by the Charles Bronfman Collection in New York, The Droog Design in Amsterdam, The Israel Museum in Jerusalem and The Tel Aviv Museum of Art. Each timepiece tells a story in time — from broken dimensions in the Fractal collection to simultaneous dichotomy in Duality and elusive cityscapes in City Squares. Noy’s timepieces satisfy the desire for a sublime mixture of unique design and functional perfection. Ace Jewelers is proud to be the sole and exclusive retailer of Itay Noy Timepieces in Europe!

Hereby some snap shots of the items we examined and adored over dinner (sorry for the poor lighting):

Itay Noy Fractal & City Squares

Itay Noy Duality Limited Edition Watch

Itay Noy: The name says all – Duality (the timepiece has two watches)

Itay Noy hommage to the greatest squares in major cities… Guess which one this is HINT

Itay Noy: Discrete Bling Bling – Black Diamonds (unisex model)

For an overview of the complete collection of Itay Noy, please visit the official website of the watchmaker: www.Itay-Noy.com or the reseller of his timepieces in Europe: www.AceJewelers.com (yes, as the CEO of Ace Jewelers, I am proud to announce that because of WFB, we became an AD of these unique watches ).

Ulysse Nardin’s Chairman hybrid smart phone

Since a few days, Ulysse Nardin is spreading a few sneak preview pictures on their latest invention.. the cell phone for the guy (or Chairman) who has everything already! Their ‘Chairman’ cell phone  is a green machine, getting its energy from a mechanical (kinetic) source.

There is nothing more I can say about it actually, except that I am very anxious to see the final version of this ultimate luxury phone. Ulysee Nardin will introduce their Chairman on the BaselWorld fair at the Hall of dreams, hall 1.0 stand A05. The official UN-Cells website doesn’t reveal a thing about their smart phone with (mechanical) watch DNA.

As you can see on the picture below, there will be only 1846 pieces of this cell phone, referring to the year in which Ulysse Nardin was founded.

Will it be as good as RIM’s BlackBerry? Or Apple’s iPhone? Or as well crafted as Vertu’s phones? Let’s see and wait, [about] two weeks to go…

Ace Jewelers goes Shopping Cart

Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam is going shopping cart. So, what’s special about that? Some [smaller] independent brands even sell watches via their own website. True. However, Ace Jewelers is an authorized dealer of big brands, like [for example] Baume et Mercier, Breitling, Ebel, IWC, Longines, Omega and TAG Heuer.

Authorized dealers are of course permitted [by the watch manufacturers] to have their own website, but selling these watches via their webshop is quite unique. By doing this, an authorized dealer like Ace Jewelers is – finally – able to compete in a fair manner with the online watchstores that offer watches via the grey channels.

The added value to customers is that you are also able to visit the ‘brick and mortar’-store to pick-up the watch or to get good after sales service if necessary, without the hassle of sending your precious watch by mail.

Another great selling point of Ace Jewelers is that they offer an incredible extent of information about their products. Some product pages even includes videos of the watch!

When ordering a watch, you can select to have it send to you by mail or to pick it up in their store in Amsterdam. Payments are accepted through the well known credit card companies, iDEAL (a safe Dutch online payment system that works with most of the Dutch banks), bank transfer, cash on delivery and of course by ATM in the Ace store if you choose to pick up your watch yourself.

A safe way to buy your wrist watch online, from an authorized dealer. Besides this, the website offers great functionality for comparing wristwatches, ordering watch accessories (watch boxes, leather [watch manufacturer] straps, etc.) and all watch manuals are on-line accessible in PDF format.

I hope that IWC, Omega and the other aforementioned brands support this initiative by Ace Jewelers. I believe that customers want to be able to do an online queste before they go out to the shops and buy a watch, and finding an authorized dealer with a professional on-line frontend application is helping them tremendously in the web of online watch dealers.

In my opinion, this is the only way to go for these established brands to keep up with the ever growing needs [for information] of the modern customer.

SIHH 2009: To Bling, or Not To Bling?

Last week I visited the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, Switzerland.

The fair was in several aspects different to my expectations…

1. It was not as busy as the previous years, but it was busier than I expected.

2. I tought the brands would not present many novelties, since they only had 8 months since the last SIHH Fair. But I was wrong, each brand introduced at least one new movement and/or familie in its collection.

3. The current financial crisis hit the world hard in October of last year, but the first signs were showing up in April (when the pre-last SIHH took place). Therefore, I expected that this would be a ‘modest’ year (Read: no bling bling). I was wrong… It seemed the trend of last year only continued: big(ger) cases, even more diamonds and way more precious metals!

That is why I titled this blog: “To Bling, or Not To Bling?”

From my last comment, you probably can guess what the anwser will be, but I want to share the following images with you:

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Cartier Ballon Blue Full Diamonds

Cartier Jewelry Bracelet with watch

Cartier: Is it a watch or a bracelet?

Cartier: Not an alligator watch strap, but a diamond alligator on your watch!

Girrard-Perregaux: Two hand on a bracelet of diamonds…

Sooooo much bling, I couldn’t even photgraph it…

Parmigiani: Men’s of Ladies watch?

Roger Dubuis: Nice contast – Skeleton movement versus full diamond case, or is the next one better?

Roger Dubuis: Full Diamond Tourbillon

A. Lange & Sohne: Elegant Bling?

And the list goes on… Is this wishful thinking or will these brands really sell these watches in 2009? In any case, we advise whomever is going to wear one of these watches to purchase ‘protective’ sunglasses with these watches

SIHH 2009 Trade Show Review

Yesterday, I visited the 19th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, Switzerland. Two days ago we already posted a preview and hereby we want to present the snap shots I took. FYI: The next SIHH will again be in January.

This year the following brands were present at the SIHH:

+  Richemont brands:
- Cartier
- A. Lange & Sohne
- Jaeger –LeCoultre
- IWC
- Mont Blanc
- Panerai
- Vacheron Constantin
- Van Cleef & Arpels
- Dunhill
- Baume & Mercier
- Piaget
- Ralph Lauren

+ Independent brands:
- Audermars Piguet
- Girard Perregaux
- Jean Richard
- Parmigiani
- Roger Dubuis

Hereby a review of the fair with some snap shops. In advance I want to apologize for the poor quality of the photographs, this had two reasons: some window cases & the lighting were very poor and we were in huge rush.

The overall conclusion is that there are not spectacular novelties, most brands restyled a family, presented a new movement, but it still is mostly line extensions. The trends of previous years are contined: Black cases, Big is still the benchmark, Bling is NOT dead and pink gold is still leading in the precious metals followed by Platinum. The buzz on the fair was the new kid on the block: Ralph Lauren.

Ralph Lauren
The Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry Company did not present any watches on display, but solely by appointment. Hereby an impression of their window, presenting a ladies watch:

And, this is an impression of the Men’s collection of Ralph Lauren:

IWC
The brand from Schaffhausen restyled their Aquatimer collection and therefore their complete stand was like an underwater experience.

Fans of the Deep One finally can add a brother to their cult watch, the Deep Two:

Cousteau is history and IWC is sponsoring the Galapagos Foundation and therefore made an unique black Aquatimer with a Rubber coating:

IWC also ‘borrowed’ a patent strap exchange system from sister-company Cartier… For more info, please stay tuned.

Baume & Mercier
The ‘elegant’ watch company from Geneva did not launch many novelties this year, besides four magnificent William Baume Limited Editions, this is a watch we found striking:

Audemars Piguet
Flying in to Geneva I was reading my morning paper, IHT, and the newest AP model immediately coought my attention (yes, it reminds me too of a Breguet). Unfortunately, the watch was not on disply. Therefore, I want to share the following image with you that confirms two trends (black & big):

Vacheron Constantin
Since 1755 Vacheron Constantin keeps on innovating. Apparently the vintage fashion did not pass and therefore VC re-introduced a watch they manufactured in 1921 (my sincere apologies for the terrible picture):

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Like IWC, does Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture amazing divers watches. This year JLC focuses on the novelties in the Compressor series, but I like this model better:

Ferrari by Panerai
Panerai took the term “Ferrari Red” very litteraly:

Cartier
Is Cartier the King of Bling? Or did they just manufacture this watch for the new First Lady, Michelle Obama?

JeanRichard
GP little brother is growing up, it is now catering women who want it all, bling & tourbillon:

Mont Blanc
Minerva has been bought by Richemont/Mont Blanc a couple of years ago and they are making spectacular new movements:

Dunhill
I wish that Dunhill would make these keys again:

Panerai
The Italian brand had a lot of news, but they did not present the prototypes in the showcases, but don’t we all love the watch presented horizontally?!

Roger Dubuis
We listed this brand as an independent brand, but this is since last year not completely true anymore. Richemont took a big stake in this innovative and young company. I loved the sight of this watch movement:

A. Lange & Sohne
The German Manufacture, A. Lange & Sohne, seems to learn from their colleague, PP… Patek recently presented classical moon phases watches (originally for men) in ‘bling’ versions for ladies… At AL&S, they have must thought the same:

Piaget
The manufacture Piaget presented this watch during the Salon, but unfortunately I did not have time to visit the stand to ask them watch functions this watch/case lid had… Maybe one of our visitors can? I does look coo, doesn’t it?

Basically, my visit to this year’s SIHH was great fun as usual. It seemed a lot let busy. At first impression it seemed that the brands did not have much to present this year (they did only have 8 months since the last SIHH), but when you analyze it… They did develop quite a bit in these last 8 months! On top of that, I expected that the brands would be a bit more… What’s the word… ‘modest’?! The first indication of the current crisis did present itself already in April 2008… But, on the contrary… Bling was still alive and kickin’! Maybe a nice subject for the next post

Preview SIHH 2009

As written here on April 11th, 2008, we predicted that SIHH 2009 will not be in the same month as BaselWorld, but in January… To be precise: tomorrow!

Therefore I am flying tomorrow morning, very early, to Geneva to visit the 19th SIHH, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. It is not clear why the Haute Horlogerie Association decided to move this exclusive event away from the shadow of BaselWorld, which usually takes place in April. We predict it will be way less busy, since visitor that come from other continents will be forced to choose and will choose to visit BaselWorld. But, now with the current economical situation, we expect that the numbers of visitor will be even lower.

But, the watch brands have not been sitting still and every brand present at SIHH have news. There is even a ‘new kid on the block’: Ralph Lauren (a joint venture of Richemont and Polo Ralph Lauren – The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewellery Company, S.A.R.L.). The creation of a new haute horlogerie company was announced in March 2007 and almost two years later products will be presented… We are very curious!

Unfortunately we did not find any pictures of Ralph Lauren watches yet, so we have to wait until tomorrow. We will try to post a new article WITH pictures tomorrow on this blog… Stay tuned!

What have we heard throught the grapevine up till today:

- IWC: Restyled the complete Aquatimer Family and is launching a successor to the infamous Deep One: The Deep Two. There will not be a Cousteau Limited Edtion anymore, but instead a Galapogos Limited Edtition version. There will be a St. Ex. Limited Edition, which will be a Big Pilot version. On top of that there are many new variations on the other collections: Big Ingenieur Chronograph, New calibre with month and date in a double digit format!

- Baume & Mercier: Focuses on the Hampton collection this year and is launching a Hampton Magnum Chronograph and a Magnum Ladies version.

- Vacheron Constantin: Launching the Historiques American 1921, an unique cushion shaped watch!

- A. Lange & Sohne: Is launching the second member of the ‘chronometer’ family, the Richard Lange ‘Pour le Merite’.

-Girard-Perregaux: The brand always tries to focuses equally to men as well as to men. Therefore this year they are launching the ww.tc in a 43mm black ceramic case. For the ladies they developed the Cat’s Eey Annual Calendar and Signs of the Zodiac… It sounds interesting… We are curious.

- Parmigiani: The Tondagraph celebrates a new case and a brand new grande complication movement this year.

- Mont Blanc: The penmaker became a true watchmaker by the incorporation of Minerva and therefore are launching two new Villeret watches: The Villeret Grande Chronographe Regulator and The Grand Tourbillon Heueres Mysterieuses (sounds very interesting).

- Piaget: This brands is often percieved as a jewelry brand, but few people know that Piaget is a true manufacture watchmakers brand. This year Emperador Coussin Moon Phase.

- Van Cleef & Arpels: ‘Une Journee a Paris’ is a watch which is a tribute to the hometown of the brand: Paris.

- Panerai: The Italian brand transformed rapidly in the last couple of years and is aiming to become a true manufacture. Therefore this year they are presenting a new automatic movement, which will be presented in three variations: power reserve, GMT and GMT plus power reserve. On top of that the are introducing the Luminor Chrono Daylight 44mm-Titanium. We are very curious what the Paneristi will say… Please share with us

- JeanRichard: A brand that is part of the Girrad-Perregaux family follows it brother’s tradition, they will also launch a new watch for men (Chronoscope MV Agusta Brutale Nera Watch) and for women (Lady Juliette).

Tomorrow we hope that we will confirm these previews and present the news from: Cartier, Dunhill, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet and Roger Dubuis.

My co-author on this blog, Boon, will be attending too and we planned a mid-day coffee brake to catch up and have a quick review of the fair… Boon will be running arond filming the novelties! I will use my pocket camera making snap shots for you to publish here… Hope to welcome you here tomorrow